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Compy Crashes at start


Coaster Live!
ok, here's the deal. I left the room and came back and my compy was off. So I turned it back on and poof it's back off again. The lights on the mobo are still on but now, I try turning it on and as soon as the fans start turning it shuts off again. Innitially it started back into windows but now I can't get it to stay on longer than 2 sec. And all this just started happening today. I haven't installed any new hardware nor programs either. This is what I have:

DFI Lan Party UT nF3 250Gb - mobo
Athlon 64 3400
1 gb ddr Corsair
PNY Nvidia 6800 GT
120gb hd Maxtor - no longer have the 80gb
500w power supply

Nothing is overclocked at all. I'm running windows xp with all the updates... Periodically I'd get a nv4disp.dll error while playing WoW but that's just a driver issue from what I can tell (whole nother problem - updated drivers and tried the older ones as well - no fix).

Temperatures are fine too. I even opened up the case and put a small room fan in and temps are at roughly 79 degrees F. Any ideas?

Also sorry if this is posted in the wrong place...didn't know if it was a hardware issue or one between the chair and the compy...

UPDATE: I switched the videocards around trying to pinpoint the issue, no go...off to see if it's the HD taking a crap on me.
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What canadian said.

Plus check the cpu hsf speed sensor wire and make sure it is plugged into the CPU MB header and the yellow wire is not broken. Some MB will shut down if they don't see fan RPMs. Make sure the HSF blades are really turning. Use a flashlight if visibility is poor.

If you have another fan you can plug into the MB header so it will see RPM try that too. The speed sensor on your HSF may have dies. Mkae sure the cpu HSF is plugged in somewhere thoug it must have cooling.

If that's all good it's time for more details.
-Are there any beeps?
-Do the keyborad lights flash?
-If it's an optical mouse, does the laser light up?
-Will the CD drawers open?
-Does the monitor power light stay green or does it flash or go black?

Pull the RAM and repeat the above checks.
Pull the video card and repeat the above checks.


Coaster Live!
I checked all of the above. I switched HD's out and put my old one into my wife's compy and it kept giving me hd errors as if it was fried. So today being the gunhoe guy I am, went and bought a 120gb WD HD. Started fine, was formating for windows then BOOM everything was off again. SO, that cleared that up the fact it's not the HD. I had a Thermal Cooling CPU fan that I recently bought that I hadn't put in yet so I installed that as well...still the same crash.

UPDATE: I pulled every piece out 1 at a time. Kept getting the same issue. Keyboard/mouse would light up, no odd beeps, checked the CPU fan line, removed ram, did everything. Then decided to put the requirements back in and then remove the 2 power lines from the power supply to Mobo (multi wire adapter and the 4 wire piece that goes to the cpu?) I unplugged those and then put them back in. Suddenly it fired up. I've had it on for about 20 minutes now with no errors or crashes. Can anyone explain to me why in the hell that worked?!?!


Stranger Than Fiction
Political User
It shouldn't have worked. I had a similar issue, but mine happened after repeated power outages. I'd say buy a new PSU stat. Or I guess you could wait and see, I can't imagine it would last too much longer though.


Coaster Live!
yeah, it's crazy...i've been running it now for roughly an hour and no signs or recurance. I even have World of Warcraft playing and my toon is standing in IF in front of the bank...(most tedious thing I could think of to test my compy out)
Make sure the old comp PSU has a big enough power supply (especially 12V) to support the new computer. 12V should be at least 25A for the 3400/6800GT combo to work, preferably 34A and dual rail.

And thinking about it, reseating the MB power connectors will clean off any oxcide build up and could make it work for a while if that power supply is marginal.

CHeck the new power supply 12V rating. It should be about 35A and preferably dual rail for your system. Wattage rating means nothing anymore.

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