Vehicle Maintenance Habits -- Yours. (Please Help!!)

[Sazar]

What vehicle do you drive?

Model, spec and year please.

 

[sean.ferguson]

1. Do you routinely check the fluid levels and tire pressure (including the spare) in your car?
(yes)
no

3. Did you purchase the car you drive, or did someone else, or is it someone else's car?
(mine, purchased myself)
mine, purchased by another
not mine

4. Do you know where the owner's manual is?
(In the boot of the car)

Check oil, brake fluid & water levels weekly. Check brake pads and discs every few months. Change air and oil filters every few months also.

 

[gonaads]

Here is what i think was important from inside the truck.

P255/7OR16SL P255/7OR16SL
16X7.OJ RIMS 16X7.OJ
241/35 COLD 241/35


So what does this mean when i go check the air i put that little thing in my tire and the other sides comes out saying (eg. 25) i have to fill it to what?
IF u still want a picture ill try and get one.

The 241 number from the 241/35 is the metric equivalent of PSI or Kilopascals (kPa). Such as these examples of larger truck tire pressures: 300 kPa (44 psi) or 350 kPa (51 psi). The 35 is what you need to inflate the tires to. 35 PSI is the recommended pressure. Basically the P2555/70R16SL is the tire size. The 16X7.0J is the wheel/rim size as it states "RIMS".

If you look at a tire pressure gauge (be it the standard pencil shaped type or one with a dial), they have two different scales on them. Best thing for anyone to do is to purchase a good tire pressure gauge and learn to use it, and use it often. Well at least once every couple of weeks or so. Tire pressures will hold for a good amount of time. Unless you have leaks in one or more tires then you should have them repaired/patched/plugged. Now if you are constantly going over hard/rough terrain then you should check your inflation pressures more frequently due to the added pounding to the tires.

And as for the original questions put forth.

1. Do you routinely check the fluid levels and tire pressure (including the spare) in your car?

Fluids: Twice a week
Tire Pressure: Yes I do, including the spare.

3. Did you purchase the car you drive, or did someone else, or is it someone else's car?

Yes purchased by me.

4. Do you know where the owner's manual is?

Yes I do (glove compartment).

 

[X-Istence]

Waaaaghghghg.

5,000-7,500 miles. 3,000 is a number thrown out there by oil companies as the owners manuals say "If driven hard or in dusty conditions change at 3,000 miles" And then it is only to prevent oil filter plugging in the very worst case scenarios.

Mebey if you are using a cheap filter, or cheap oil, then I would do 3,000 miles. I go 12,000 miles or a year and some on synthetic 0W40 and fleetguard filters.

I have synthetic in my car, and I wanted to go the 5,000 miles on the oil, but after running 3,000 miles on it, it has become so gunked up because of the fact that the engine's oil before I bought it had probably not been changed for a few years, that for the next few months to come, I will HAVE to change the oil every 3,000 miles or my lifters will stick, and that my friend causes the engine to tick!

I do drive around in Phoenix which is just one big dustbowl, and I drive it pretty hard. (Poor four banger!)

Just so we are clear on this, I use a Mobil 1 oil filter, and I use Mobil 1 synthetic.

 

[Steevo]

Dump in a quart of standard ATF, the detergents, and carbon dissolving agents will clean up a engine in about 30 minutes of running.


Just don't run the car for long with that in the oil. ATF has higher friction modifier content and can accelerate wear over a extended run.

 

[Heeter]

I have two vehicles:

one is a showcar, which I present at car shows around the summer, that one is absolutely meticulous inside and out, all the time.

The second one is my daily driver, which I never pay more than $500 for one, drive it for a couple of years then chuck it. Maintenance on these ones is not a factor as the first thing that it needs usually spells the end of it's service life. Very normal for me to never change anything on it (including fluids, oil), on purpose. Average 150,000KMS per vehicle I get out of them before they get turfed.

1. no
2. don't think about it.
3. I purchase mine.
4. Don't care if it's there

good luck!

Heeter

 

[gonaads]

Dump in a quart of standard ATF, the detergents, and carbon dissolving agents will clean up a engine in about 30 minutes of running.


Just don't run the car for long with that in the oil. ATF has higher friction modifier content and can accelerate wear over a extended run.

Actually the best way to do it is to drain the oil from the engine (re-install drain plug and tighten) but leave the old oil filter (you can also remove the old filter, drain it and reinstall it for this cleaning). Pour 3 to 4 quarts of ATF into the engine and start the engine. Let idle for 10 to 20 mins. but you can rev to 1500 RPM, but no more than that. ATF does not have the same properties as Motor Oil and you can damage the engine if you over rev it with ATF. After it has cooled a bit (10 mins) drain the ATF from the engine and remove oil filter. Install new filter and fill with the correct amount of Motor Oil. Re-start and let idle for a minute or 2. Than should remove a good amount of gunk varnish and such from the engine. They also sell Motor Flush in quart cans that you can add to the old oil before you do any sort of oil change. Just follow the instructions on the container to the letter.

 

[Steevo]

With his car the top end doesn't get much oil untill you hit 2K RPM and then the oil pools between the casting. So you always have about 1/2 quart of carryover on oil changes. It is a GM rebranded Toyota engine made by Yamaha motorcycle division. 7AFE Same as in my Celica. They are also prone to blow oil out the gaskets. I had to stop using synthetic as it was moving so much out.




It will be sold or totally rebuilt this year, and a turbo ethanol conversion is sounding good to me. Aluminum flywheel and a puck clutch.

 

[vern]

1. Yes, if you count getting oil changed when the light goes on.
2. -
3. mine, me
4. Yes. Glove box.

 

[X-Istence]

I have used the ATF before, however it did not do it's job. Afterwards I went to synthetic, and have had it now for 2,500 miles. It started eating it up, so I threw in 32 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil. That caused it to clean it out really well. As in it does not tick anymore. Going to get a new oil change done this Monday, so just a stop gap measure to fill her up again, I threw in a quart of Mobil 1 Synthetic.

Perfect.

Have also been using the Marvel Mystery oil in my fuel, to help clean the fuel system, this has caused my car to perform much better than it did. Which is perfect, I have more power now, and it is much easier on the gas than it was before. Running about 35 on a gallon (no AC). Which is better than the 25 mpg it used to be running.

 

[gonaads]

It will be sold or totally rebuilt this year, and a turbo ethanol conversion is sounding good to me. Aluminum flywheel and a puck clutch.

I use to have a 1957 Chevy Bel Air 2dr sedan (My Dad had bought it new off the show room floor, it was the family car, then I got it from my Dad) with an aluminum fly with copper insert and a puck clutch. Had a 283 V8 with a turbo charger and all the trimmings. Took me 4 months to tear it down and build it like that. Hell this was back in 1975. Most no one had ever seen a turbo charged car before. Man that thing would get the wheels up. I miss that car.