My new car

X-Istence

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I needed a car so I could get back and forth to school, as well as for work when I find a job. I picked it up for only $1000 and it looks and drives awesome.

It is a 1997 Kia Sephia GS with a 1.8 liter twin nothing (I wish this said Turbo) 4 cylinder engine :p It needs some work done on it, but overall it was an excellent buy.

Oh, did I mention Mother's Claybar for the win? Yeah, the only reason it looks so nice on the outside is because of Mothers Claybar and Turtle Wax ICE.
 

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Some more pictures.

It will be getting a custom plate soon enough!

It also needs a new head valve gasket, and some engine degreaser to get rid of the oil!
 

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Congratulations on the new ride. I hope it works out for you.
 
Now remember it drives on the wheels. Henyman will let you know that roofs don't accelerate all that well :p
 
yeah they have a habbit of making your insurance go up as well :p
 
nice, I didn't know they made those in pink. Maybe I should buy my mom one. ;)






lol j/k. nice anyways. :D
 
Congrats X. It looks like a great car. Hopefully you won't end up having to spend too much on repairs (if you end up having to get the head valve repaired too it can get expensive).
 
Congrats X. It looks like a great car. Hopefully you won't end up having to spend too much on repairs (if you end up having to get the head valve repaired too it can get expensive).

I can do all the work together with a good friend of mine. No, the head valve is good, just the gasket is old, and seeps oil, so I need to get that replaced, but that is a $20 part at Autozone. Will take all of 20 minutes max, but am going to wait with doing that till I get the new A/C Compressor that way everything has to come out anyway, and I can properly degrease the engine.
 
I can do all the work together with a good friend of mine. No, the head valve is good, just the gasket is old, and seeps oil, so I need to get that replaced, but that is a $20 part at Autozone. Will take all of 20 minutes max, but am going to wait with doing that till I get the new A/C Compressor that way everything has to come out anyway, and I can properly degrease the engine.

That's good you don't need to get the head valve repaired cuz my dad recently had to get that done and it cost him several hundred bucks to get it repaired(thankfully it didn't have to be replaced).
 
That is another 7AFE 1.8L just like is in my Celica. Just like in Geo's and many other cars.



Get a valvecolver set and the new o-rings for the distributor. I just got the valvecover set put in and the distributor still leaks a quart of ****ing oil every thousand miles. :(


For more power get a piggyback S-AFC2 build a cold air induction out of either large flexable tubing, or PVC pipe and wrap it with heat tape, flea bay header, and dump the cat and 2" straight to a decent muffler.
 
7AFE.jpg




This is the toyota version.


Also don't go past 120K on a timing belt or you might get stranded, and if you do that change the water pump, it is integrated and in a inline style.
 
That is another 7AFE 1.8L just like is in my Celica. Just like in Geo's and many other cars.

Get a valvecolver set and the new o-rings for the distributor. I just got the valvecover set put in and the distributor still leaks a quart of ****ing oil every thousand miles. :(

For more power get a piggyback S-AFC2 build a cold air induction out of either large flexable tubing, or PVC pipe and wrap it with heat tape, flea bay header, and dump the cat and 2" straight to a decent muffler.

I don't need more power. It would be nice, but some of the modifications that it requires will only gain me a few horses, which is just not worth the money.

Mine does not leak a quart. The only place it leaks is right at the valve cover gasket, so that is all I am going to replace. It will be getting a set of other gaskets as we take the car apart to put a new AC on it.

7AFE.jpg


This is the toyota version.

Also don't go past 120K on a timing belt or you might get stranded, and if you do that change the water pump, it is integrated and in a inline style.

The timing belt is going to be replaced soonish as well, same time as the A/C compressor. My friend is a residential mechanic for everything with an engine. He is the brother of a professor of mine at UAT. He rebuild a wrecked 98 Mustang GT he bought for $1000 from the ground up back to a working piece of machinery. He recently sold that, and bought an Mustang BULLITT edition, one of the 5000 or so in the series. He knows his cars.

He also suggested I get the timing belt done.

This car was not driven hard at all, it's previous owner was a grandma who drove it back and forth between home and the grocery store, and to her grandchildren. The transmission oil has not been replaced since the car was first sold in 97, and it still looks and smells like it should. Tranny oil starts to smell really bad and burned if the car is run very hard, especially in Phoenix where temperatures are already higher than normal.
 
Mine didn't either, but the o-rings are there I believe, and after being disturbed they begin to leak. That has been mine and many other experiences.

And at the very least seafoam the engine and drop in half a quart of non synthetic ATF for the last 200 miles before your next oil change. The oil control rings on these tent to coke up, and the top end gets gummy with all the places for oil to hide.
 
It has Marvel mystery oil in it, which cleans out all the gunk before the next oil change which is this friday. Have driven it another 1000 since I threw the Marvel in.

If I am going to replace the O-rings on the distributor, I can get a new distributor for $40, and the O-rings cost me $15, I might as well get a new distributor, it has moving parts and bearings, so replacing it would be smarter.

Marvel:

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/main.taf?p=1

Marvel Mystery Oil® should be added to your engine oil at every oil change. In a traditional automobile engine with a 5 quart oil capacity, simply replace one of the engine oil quarts with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil®. For your convenience, MM13R is the quart size of Marvel Mystery Oil® and can be found at most automotive parts and supply retailers and mass merchants. Marvel is also safe and effective to use with synthetic and synthetic-blend motor oils.

When added to engine oil, Marvel reduces and prevents valve sticking and clatter by breaking down harmful deposits of carbon and sludge. Oftentimes, valve sticking can be identified by a “ticking” sound coming from the engine compartment when the engine is running. This ticking sound will increase and decrease with the speed of the engine.

Marvel Mystery Oil® fortifies the properties of motor oil, both traditional and synthetic. Marvel prevents oil breakdown caused by extreme temperatures. In addition, Marvel promotes easier cold weather starting with its extremely low pour point of (-65?) Fahrenheit and ability to eliminate oil’s tendency to congeal at low temperatures.

Got rid of the sticking in my car! Now she purs!
 
You know I just noticed. In the first batch of photos there's that all red one. The way you're holding the camera it seems your hand is made out of dough or something :D
 

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