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Asus Board to Blame?

arew264

OSNN Junior Addict
#1
I recently bought and installed an ASUS p5vdc-mx with an Intel Pentium 4 Dual Core 2.6 GHz processor. The installation was fine, and it ran for about a week. Now I will turn it on, it will start running like normal, there will be a click, the humming noise will lower in pitch (I think this is the hard drives spinning down as the fans don't seem to be changing speed), and the screen will lock at whatever it's doing. It will then click again, the humming will rise in pitch to where it was before, but the computer will remail locked. The power supply is giving me all I need (I have removed a hard drive and the graphics card and the problem is still there), the hard drives seem to be fine (don't know why that matters but hey), and the motherboard power light doesn't go out. I am guessing this is either a bad mobo or a bad processor. Any guesses which?
 

Aprox

Moderator
Political User
#2
If anything it just sounds like a bad hard-drive to me. Have you been able to figure out the area the sound is coming from?
 

arew264

OSNN Junior Addict
#3
Well, I just disconnected the hard drives (two of the three were still connected), and booted. It still doesn't work, but now I have a bios error to go on, which I saw before but didn't take note of. This board has a built in feature called Ai NOS which lets it overclock the processor when the demand gets high. This makes for a nice boost in processing power during peak usage. However, it is halting in the BIOS with the error

Overclocking Failed! Please enter setup to re-configure your system.

Once it got to the boot failure screen, I popped a Damn Small Linux disk into the disk drive, hit space, and it acted as it it was booting, then the whole thing shut down. The power light was on, but the fans had stopped all together (didn't check the power supply fan, maybe it was on...).

I really have no idea what to replace. Could it be the cd drive?

EDIT: The power supply fan is indeed turning off, yet the system power light on the front panel remains on when the system is essentially off. What the heck is going on here?
 
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arew264

OSNN Junior Addict
#4
I am fairly sure now that it is the mobo. I connected another power supply to check that, and that isn't it. I can't turn off the Ai NOS option (the bios doesn't support or ASUS wanted it that way). The overclocking problem confuses me though. Is it that the motherboard is failing to overclock the processor or is it that the processor is failing to overclock? This is mostly going over my head, but I think I'm making progress...
 
#5
Sounds like the stupid bios is trying to overclock the CPU but the CPU doesn't have any headroom to allow overclocking so it's crashing.

There might be some advanced options in the MB bios setup to diasble overclocking (your best bet for now) or set a maximum allowed overclock speed (set to default speed). The dynamic clock speed change techniques Intel uses could be causing a problem with your particular system.

Also it is not unusaual for overclocking to work for a while and then become unstable. You are pushing the chip and as it and the rest of the system age it might not be able to perform anymore.

There could also be a bios problem. Check the MB site. Read the FAQs and see if there is an update Bios available that addresses issues with overclocking and/or dual core CPUs.

There have been a few issues crop up (hardware and software) handling dual core chips but the manufacturers are getting them sorted out pretty fast so don't worry.
 

Aprox

Moderator
Political User
#6
So you are saying that you are unable to disable the AI Nos feature? If you can get yourself into the bios I am sure there is a place to disable it. Perhaps flip through your manual?

Check all the fans in the system and make sure none of them are clogged up with dust and grime. Clean if necessary.
 

arew264

OSNN Junior Addict
#7
Well, I think I found it. There is a setting for CPU frequency that is set to auto. The manual says it can be set from 100 to 400. I think I remember seeing something about this mentioning that the cpu frequency times the cpu multiplier was the speed or something... what should I set it to?
 

Aprox

Moderator
Political User
#8
That setting is for the FSB speed, being set to auto it should be fine. I would focus on finding and disabling the AI Nos setting. However, lowering the FSB speed could temporarily fix your problem at the cost of significatly crippling system performance, so the real problem would still need to be addressed.
 

Aprox

Moderator
Political User
#10
As LeeJend said, you might consider upgrading your bios. Also, if you are comfortable enough you might also think about resetting your bios if you dont want to upgrade, or if there is no upgrade.

I am gonna look through this PDF, I will get back to you if I find anything about the AI nos.


Update:
Advanced>JumperFree Configuration>Overclock Mode [Setting]

Change this to None, or something like that. I am not sure what the options are.
 

arew264

OSNN Junior Addict
#11
That was actually the setting I found before and set. It can be set to a number between 100 and 400, and I set it to 100. THe problem still continued. I am going to get on the phone and ask for a replacement because it just shut down when I tried to go into the bios again, and while the power light on the mobo is on, it won't turn on. I have checked the connections. My only conclusion is that it was a bad board.
 
#13
Before you go to the trouble to return the MB:

Go to section 2.1.4 or the manual and follow the directions to restore the bios from the install CD.

If the problem is still there then go to section 2.1 of the manula and follow the directions to update your bios over the internet.

Even if you return the MB if the problem is in the bios most likely the replacement MB you get will have the same version of bios installed.

NOTE: That MB does not support the Intel speed step functiosn so it should not be trying to increase your cpu speed. See page X of the manula under CPU specifications.
 

arew264

OSNN Junior Addict
#14
Before you go to the trouble to return the MB:

Go to section 2.1.4 or the manual and follow the directions to restore the bios from the install CD.

If the problem is still there then go to section 2.1 of the manula and follow the directions to update your bios over the internet.

Even if you return the MB if the problem is in the bios most likely the replacement MB you get will have the same version of bios installed.

NOTE: That MB does not support the Intel speed step functiosn so it should not be trying to increase your cpu speed. See page X of the manula under CPU specifications.
I had to update the BIOS just to get Windows to stop giging me ACPI blue screens

I have tried restoring defaults just as the problem started

I will have to upgrade the BIOS in the new mobo anyway

I don't think it was the BIOS because the problem started about a week after I got the new board up and running, and no BIOS settings were changed in like the last three days before it died.

Thanks for your help, I have the mobo packaged up and am going to call TigerDirect to see what they want to do.
 

Rakki-san

OSNN One Post Wonder
#15
Oh how appropriate that as I tried to post a reply to this thread my computer froze...

Sorry to rez this thread, but I am having the exact same issue as the author and was wondering if the author has had any success in RMAing the board. If not, have you done anything else to resolve the problem? I bought my P5VDC-MX board around the same time as well as my Intel 920 processor.

I had this written out so well before it froze...haha.
But if the author still active on this board, would you please post your results and conclusions?

All the people Ive talked to have come to the concensus that my power supply is giving insufficient power. But it is a 400w PS and I fail to see how merely running the necessities could cause it to freeze like it did.

So. When my computer freezes, as it inevitably does and is doing so now as I write this, the motherboard LED as the well as the fan and power button LED stay lit. If I attempt to shut down the computer by pressing the power button, it does nothing and just sits there. If I attempt the reboot button, it does reboot but I get a "no signal input" on the monitor. So the only way I can shut it down is my pressing the power switch on the back of the case.

I've removed the battery to clear the RTC ram but that doesnt seem to affect in any way when or if the computer will deign to boot. And when I do boot after having taken out and replaced the battery, I will get the, like he did

"Overclocking failed!"

But I've done no such overclocking, obviously. I went into BIOS and set the overclocking thing from [Auto] tp [manual] and set it to 200 but that doesnt seem to affect the freezing at all, as far as I can tell.

As I do not have a local store that supplies computer parts, I cannot tell you that I have another PS to try or another HD to try or anything like that, I'm afraid. My BIOS is updated.

I would really very much appreciate any help and especially if the author, if still active, could provide additional computer specifications.
 
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Admiral Michael

Michaelsoft Systems CEO
#16
Please don't post with such large text.

As for the power supply, wattage isn't the only key factor when considering the quality and size. You need to look at the amperage on each the +5 and +12V rails. The higher the better and the more power your power supply can provide, most power supplies that come with a case and cost dirt cheap are sh*t and should actually be replaced before they die and take your system with em.
 

Rakki-san

OSNN One Post Wonder
#17
Im very sorry to have posted with such large font, I'm used to posting on Gaiaonline where the size 9 font is actually smaller than the default font. My apologies, I really didnt mean to do that.

And upon looking at more recent reviews of the case-supplied PSU its not as great as when first reviewed when I bought it.

Well, is there a certain psu brand or wattage that you would *personally recommend?
 
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#19
Wattage means nothing anymore. You need an ATX V2.0 or latter PS to run the latest MB/CPU/Video.

If you want to run overclocked or SLI/Crossfire then go for a supply that has at least dual +12V @ 18A, preferably 19A. (ATX V2 guarantees the dual +12V but not the current rating on the two +12V rails).

If you are not planning on SLI/Crossfire the +12V rails can be as low as 17A.

Antec True Power II, or Enermax in the USA and Canada. Europe has another brand (I forget the name) that is also highly recommended. Avoid the NEO and Smart Power product lines from Antec.
 
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