Serious Help

Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by Sinster, Jul 9, 2003.

  1. Sinster

    Sinster Moderator

    My computer randomly* shuts down. I pretty sure its my PS. The reason I think its my PS is when I plug something into an electrical circuit it shuts down. Now I get random shut downs. It always happens when I am sitting idle. I can play BF42, UT2K3, or Unreal II for hours and it doesn't shutdown. When I sit idle it can shut down 2-3 times in a 5 minute period. Sometimes it shutdowns restarts and once I make it to my desktop it shuts down again. Nothing is showing up in Events. I have ran memory benchmarks thinking it might be my memory and CPU benchmarks using Sis Softsandra. I can complete the test without problems. It happens in default settings also.
  2. Petros

    Petros Thief IV

    Pacific Northwest
    A cheap, poor power supply will (that's WILL) cause stability problems as well as shorten the life of your components.

    Well, no real question asked here, so might I make a recommendation on a great, yet inexpensive one?
    Raidmax power supply! Very smooth DC :)
  3. jawshoouh

    jawshoouh Guest

    what wattage PSU do you have? these days 350W seems to be the minimum, i've got a 530W in mine but i seem to be running some more stuff than you (5 HDDs internally, plus the usual)...Antec makes has a good 430W PSU, TruePower 430 or somethin like that...
  4. syn

    syn long live xp0!

    College Park, MD
    Check your mobo connection too, I had that problem a while ago, somehow my mopo plug was loose and shut down at random times. I'm running a 550W in mine to run my never ending list of goodies ;D
  5. Sinster

    Sinster Moderator

    I am running a 400W power supply
    I will be getting a new one.. I will also check the connection.

    Syn you avatar reminds me of the movie 28 Days Later. Have you seen it? It was a pretty good movie.
  6. syn

    syn long live xp0!

    College Park, MD
    nah, but i want to, even more now that a chimp with a gun reminds you of it ;D
  7. jawshoouh

    jawshoouh Guest

    i've got a 28 days later avatar but it's not kosher for the board ;)
  8. Zedric

    Zedric NTFS Guru Folding Team

    The theory with a too small PSU sounds flawed as gaming works fine, and gaming uses more power than idle. I could be wrong of course. :)
  9. Hipster Doofus

    Hipster Doofus Good grief Charlie Brown

    Melbourne Australia
    To stop automatic shutdown>

    Right click my computer/properties/advanced/startup & recovery/settings.

    Untick auto restart. Now you will get an error popping up which should give you a direction to look at to fix the problem.
  10. scriptasylum

    scriptasylum Moderator

    Des Moines,IA
    I agree. Are the plug contacts in the wall socket tight? If the outlet is old, it may be a bit worn. I had to replace most of mine in the house I bought because the plugs all but fell out of the socket they were so loose.

    That still doesn't really explain the reboot when idle but not under load. Maybe the PS has high DC voltage when idle, but when you load it while gaming/benchmarks, the higher current load brings the voltages to more acceptable levels? Try hooking a couple extra fans on the 12v line simply to add more of a load and then let it sit idle for a while. Or you could go into BIOS and see if it displays the voltages (or use a multimeter and measure the voltages under load and again while idle). If the DC voltage was too high, the mobo or the PS might be shutting down to protect itself. If this is the case, you may be able to adjust the PS outputs, but this can be dangerous as you most likely have to open the PS to do this.

    Also, "dirty" DC power from the PS may cause your symptoms (possibly caused by bad regulation).
  11. Sinster

    Sinster Moderator

    Its a brand new building. I have cleaned the inside of the PS. I have 5 fans hooked up to it.

    SiSoftware Sandra

    Manufacturer : Pronix (Epox)
    MP Support : No
    Model : nVidia-nForce
    System BIOS : 01/17/2003-nVidia-nForce-6A61BPAAC-00
    Chipset : nVidia nForce2 ICP

    System Memory Controller
    Location : Mainboard
    Error Correction Capability : None
    Number of Memory Slots : 3
    Maximum Installable Memory : 1GB
    Bank0/1 - A0 : DIMM 256MB
    Bank2/3 - A1 : Empty
    Bank4/5 - A2 : DIMM 256MB

    Model : Nvidia Corp nForce2 AGP Controller
    Bus(es) : ISA AGP PCI USB FireWire/1394
    Front Side Bus Speed : 2x 173MHz (346MHz data rate)

    Logical/Chipset Memory Banks
    Power Save Mode : No
    Fixed Hole Present : No

    Environment Monitor 1
    Model : Winbond W83627HF ISA
    Version : 2.01
    Mainboard Specific Support : No

    Temperature Sensor(s)
    CPU Temperature : 35.5°C / 95.9°F
    Power / Aux Temperature : 19.0°C / 66.2°F

    Cooling Device(s)
    Auto Fan Speed Control : No
    Power / Aux Fan Speed : 5273rpm

    Voltage Sensor(s)
    CPU Voltage : 1.71V
    Aux Voltage : 1.57V
    +3.3V Voltage : 2.72V
    +5V Voltage : 4.81V
    +12V Voltage : 12.71V
    -12V Voltage : -12.61V
    -5V Voltage : -5.40V
    Standby Voltage : 4.99V
    Battery Voltage : 3.12V

    AGP Bus(es)
    Version : 3.00
    Current Data Transfer Rate : 8x
    Fast-Writes Enabled : Yes

    PCI Bus(es)
    Version : 2.20
    Number of Bridges : 2
    PCI Bus 0 : PCI (1x PCIClk)
    PCI Bus 1 : PCI (1x PCIClk)

    LPC Hub Controller 1
    Model : Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 ISA Bridge
    ACPI Power Management Enabled : No
    Random Number Generator Enabled : No

    USB Controller 1
    Model : Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 OHCI USB Controller
    Version : 1.00
    OHCI Interface : Yes
    Channels : 3
    Legacy Emulation Enabled : No

    USB Controller 2
    Model : Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 OHCI USB Controller
    Version : 1.00
    OHCI Interface : Yes
    Channels : 3
    Legacy Emulation Enabled : No

    USB Controller 3
    Model : Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 EHCI USB 2.0 Controller
    Version : 2.00
    Specification : 1.00
    EHCI Interface : Yes
    Channels : 6
    Legacy Emulation Enabled : No

    FireWire/1394 Controller 1
    Model : Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 FireWire Controller
    Version : 1.10
    OHCI Interface : Yes
    Enhanced Support : Yes
    Channels : 64
    Speed : 400MHz

    FireWire/1394 Controller 2
    Model : Creative Labs Audigy 2 Firewire Controller
    Version : 1.10
    OHCI Interface : Yes
    Enhanced Support : No
    Channels : 64
    Speed : 400MHz

    Expansion Slot(s)
    PCI0 (1h) : PCI 32-bit +5V PME FullLength Available (Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 ISA Bridge)
    PCI1 (2h) : PCI 32-bit +5V PME FullLength Available (Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce2 OHCI USB Controller)
    PCI2 (3h) : PCI 32-bit +5V PME FullLength InUse
    PCI3 (4h) : PCI 32-bit +5V PME FullLength InUse (Epox Computer Co Ltd nForce MCP-T Networking Adapter)
    PCI4 (5h) : PCI 32-bit +5V PME FullLength Available
    AGP (F0h) : AGP 32-bit +5V FullLength Available

    Port Connector
    PRIMARY IDE : None - ATA / None
    SECONDARY IDE : None - ATA / None
    FDD : 8251 FIFO - Floppy Disk / None
    COM1 : Serial Port 16450 - 9 Pin Dual Inline / DB-9 pin male
    COM2 : Serial Port 16450 - 9 Pin Dual Inline / DB-9 pin male
    LPT1 : Parallel Port ECP/EPP - DB-25 pin female / DB-25 pin female
    Keyboard : Keyboard - PS/2 / PS/2
    PS/2 Mouse : Mouse - PS/2 / PS/2
    USB : USB - None / None

    Performance Tips
    Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
    Tip 2511 : Some memory slots are free so the memory can be easily upgraded.
    Tip 2536 : System has no SMBus/i2c/BMB bus support.
    Tip 2 : Double-click tip or press Enter while a tip is selected for more information about the tip.
  12. scriptasylum

    scriptasylum Moderator

    Des Moines,IA
    If your voltage readings are accurate, your 3.3v line is over 17% out of spec. That is quite a bit more than the recommended 5% or 10% range. I take it this measurement is during idle? If so, that's kinda low. If anything, I would expect the voltage to drop slightly under heavy load, but it shouldn't fluctuate too much, although that depends on the quality of regulation in your PS.

    BTW, your other voltages seem to be ok; 5v is at 3.8% and 12v is at 5.9%. Those two along with the 3.3v line are the heaviest loaded. Kinda curious why the 3.3v line is so far off.

    If the filter caps in your PS are bad on the 3.3v line, the averaging calculation would be off because of the ripple. If possible, try another PS and see if that helps at all.
  13. GoNz0

    GoNz0 NTFS Stoner

    the year 2525
    try dropping your FSB back down to a more standard rate and the CPU may take a little less power.
  14. Zedric

    Zedric NTFS Guru Folding Team

    These sensor readings may not be accurate. My 3.3V line is reported to be off (3.0V) and I've had no problems at all.
  15. Maveric169

    Maveric169 The Voices Talk to Me

    Elkhart, IN
    Isn't there an option in xp somewhere that is a shut down when idle for "x" minuets? I though i saw that somewhere at one time or another. Can't remember where for the life of me now. Might check under power options in the control pannel, I think there is a thing in there for UPS shut down something or another. Make sure nothing in there is funky or selected. That is not the one I am thinking of though, but I know when I was playing with it one day, I told the system I had a UPS (I didn't) and to shut down after soo long when active, and It caused all kinds of shut down issues at random intervals.

    I will keep trying to remember where I saw the other shut down thing.
  16. wbeach

    wbeach OSNN Junior Addict

    The power off is here.

    I just thought I'd reply since I'm having the same problem.

    The shut off feature is under Display properties>Screen Saver>Power>Shut down.

    This will have your computer shut down based on idle time.

    My computer shuts down as well when idle for some time. I don't know for how long. I've had it be idle for 4 hours and still work, but to be idle for say 6 it shuts down.

    But the thing is when mine shuts down it's impossible to turn it on again using the case power switch. I have to first flick the power supply switch off and on and then it will allow me to use the case power switch.

    Any thoughts?

    I only have a 300 w power supply, but it was considered acceptable for my Athlon Xp 1700+ processor chip.

    Windows XP
    Amd Athlon Xp 1700+
    K7vta3 motherboard
    3 hdd
    Maxtor 120 gig
    Western Digital 60 gig
    Fujitsu 10 Gig
    Lg burner
    Geforce 4 mx 420
    Soundblaster Live!
  17. LeeJend

    LeeJend Moderator

    Fort Worth, TX
    Couple of bad assumptions I saw above:

    A new building has good wiring... LMFAO - wiring is done by brainless apes. The newer the building, the more brainless the apes, it cuts costs. As a landlord I've pulled **** wiring out of houses that would have had them condemned if the inspectors weren't on the contractors "payroll"!

    It's summer (surprise) airconditioning units brownout power because of the big compressor starting load.

    A 400w power supply should not be a problem with your system unless it is a total POS (i.e. no name tiawanese clunker). Look for dimming lights, tv picture shrinks a little, funny noise out of the fridge if its running at the same time the system shuts down. If you're in an apartment or dorm who knows what is getting switched on and off the power bus.

    One thing I'm not clear on. Has it never shutdown in a game? If not then its probably some idle timer set somewhere.

    If has happened when the machine was active (gaming) do not assume a new or bigger supply will help. The fact that your dieing at idle points elsewhere. Like bad power coming in or something set to auto shutdown the system at idle (there are many definitions of idle, you can select no keys, no hd, no lan, timer, etc. Check all the settings in Windows and the bios.)

    If it is incoming power quality you can get a battery back up unit or power line filter for the same price range as a name brand bigger power supply. The name brand supply may not be enough of a help if the incoming power is too bad. Look for the other symptoms I described above.

    There are power line monitors available for checking power quality in your home but they are not cheap. If it's a house you may be able to get the utility company to check the power. If it's an apartment or dorm the landlord/school will just laugh at you.

    All it takes is a loose screw or nicked wire (or undersized circuits) to cause power drop outs.